Pyrography 101
Ok...make that 6 commissions. I'm working my ass off. At this rate I'll earn enough for an extra flight home to see Soran. Add to it another 3 painting commissions, and I'm setting myself up for a busy week.
One main component one the wands i make is pyrographic art, which is personalised or else carries generic symbols. As I started from scratch with basic materials, I use only a cheap soldering iron...some tips I learnt:
1) Not only does it darken the wood, it also burns a furrow. This is handy when darkening existing lines, but inconvenient when darkening large areas.
2) Sometimes its better to move the wood, not the iron, due to the grain direction.
3) Use the tapering tip of the iron for tapering lines.
4) On initial contact with the wood, the scorch is darkest, but lightens when drawn in one direction. This causes a nice shading effect.
The pins I use to connect beads to the wood seem to be coated with a sort of resin that prevents solder from sticking to it, preventing it from being welded. I must remember to scrape off the resin coating first.
On another front, I am hoping that despite being late for sign-up due to late flight, I'd still get a place in that medieval club in Adelaide. Lots of nice fights, and a trained person to teach me the use of paired scimitars. Perhaps I can even believe I'll get over the past, and find a battle really worth fighting. I will miss Singapore and Soran dearly, and his weird Initial d friends, but i look forward to meeting my master and getting to work in the forge.
Terribly sorry that I made an innapropriate comment to a friend of mine, over msn, and didn't know he was in a bad mood. I shouldn't have suggested getting him into a foursome with me and a couple of others...me bad...but at least we've made up.
One main component one the wands i make is pyrographic art, which is personalised or else carries generic symbols. As I started from scratch with basic materials, I use only a cheap soldering iron...some tips I learnt:
1) Not only does it darken the wood, it also burns a furrow. This is handy when darkening existing lines, but inconvenient when darkening large areas.
2) Sometimes its better to move the wood, not the iron, due to the grain direction.
3) Use the tapering tip of the iron for tapering lines.
4) On initial contact with the wood, the scorch is darkest, but lightens when drawn in one direction. This causes a nice shading effect.
The pins I use to connect beads to the wood seem to be coated with a sort of resin that prevents solder from sticking to it, preventing it from being welded. I must remember to scrape off the resin coating first.
On another front, I am hoping that despite being late for sign-up due to late flight, I'd still get a place in that medieval club in Adelaide. Lots of nice fights, and a trained person to teach me the use of paired scimitars. Perhaps I can even believe I'll get over the past, and find a battle really worth fighting. I will miss Singapore and Soran dearly, and his weird Initial d friends, but i look forward to meeting my master and getting to work in the forge.
Terribly sorry that I made an innapropriate comment to a friend of mine, over msn, and didn't know he was in a bad mood. I shouldn't have suggested getting him into a foursome with me and a couple of others...me bad...but at least we've made up.
